Café Mezzanotte Does Italian Right

By Rochelle Karina

You don’t have to go to Baltimore or Annapolis for fine Italian dining. Thanks to Café Mezzanotte in Severna Park the experience of an authentic Italian meal in elegant surroundings, served with style, can be found right here. Reservations are suggested, even during the week, as Café Mezz (as it’s affectionately called) can get a bit crowded.

The typical evening starts with a gracious hostess, who will direct you to your table in the wide-open dining areas. Forget the idea of dimly lit interiors and décor heavy on the red velvets; Café Mezzanotte has perfected understated elegance with a light, creamy color palette, interesting artwork, flattering lighting and white linen table cloths. The serving staff is attired in simple dark vests and shirts with colorful ties, but it’s not all about style, they have the substance to back it up.

The menu is full of modern twists on Italian classics; this isn’t your grandmother’s spaghetti-and-meatballs restaurant. On our visit, we selected Carpaccio and Prociutto e Asparagi for appetizers. The prosciutto and asparagus were perfection on a plate, cooked just enough to leave the asparagus warm through, but still crisp, and the balsamic glaze was an ideal sweet accompaniment to the slight bitterness of the asparagus. The carpaccio featured paper-thin slices of tender and delicious beef that were, unfortunately, slightly over powered by the dijon aioli.

For our entrees, we selected from the specials of the night, which were presented by our impeccably perfect sever, Michael. A Yellow Fin Tuna steak with spinach linguini and a basil butter reduction with sun-dried tomatoes was colorful, attractive and as delicious as it looked. The tuna was prepared exactly as requested, rare, of course, and the flavors and textures were the ideal mix.

The second entrée of Chilean Sea Bass with sun-dried tomato and spinach risotto, lightly dressed with a lobster bisque sauce, was a study in subtle flavors and textures. The sublime texture that is Chilean sea bass shone through with a slightly crispy, pan seared finish and a soft, almost soufflé-like interior. The risotto presented the perfect combination of creamy and al dente, which makes it such a hit, and the slight chewiness of the sun-dried tomatoes brought an interesting and successful contrast.

The wise chef at Café Mezzanotte did not succumb to the trend of drowning the dish in sauce, instead opting to lightly dress the plate with just enough of the buttery-rich lobster bisque sauce to give every bite a kiss of flavor.

From start to finish, with a super smooth crème brulee, naturally, everything was exactly as expected. Café Mezz relies on quality ingredients, prepared with skill and innovative style, and served with grace. They say perfection is their standard, and they certainly go the extra mile to achieve it.

The menu at Café Mezzanotte includes a wide range of choices from pizza and Panini to classics like lasagna and rigatoni. There are also items that just shout “Maryland” loud and clear, like the Purse Di Granchio appetizer that features Maryland-style crab imperial inside puff pastry, or the Crab Cakes entrée selection.

Prices are on the higher end, as would be expected, but the atmosphere, service and food make it well worth it. There are more modest options including the pizzas, paninis and an impressive array on entrée salads, and a few surprising menu items jump out – like the Cowboy Steak. Don’t forget to give the wine list a look, and plan on taking some time, their selection is vast and varied.

Ideal for a business lunch or dinner, or to impress on a local date-night, Café Mezz is a stand-out for many reasons. Owners Vasilis and Kosmas have continued to improve this Italian masterpiece in Severna Park, and as a result Café Mezzanotte is a must-visit restaurant.